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Seed Starting Basics

I’m not a fan of winter.  There is nobody more excited than I am to see those first signs of spring, like the appearance of crocus and daffodils.  They pop up and I know I’m down the home stretch. My grandmother suffered from the same winter blues. In order for her to not loose hope that spring would eventually come through all the snow, she kept glossy seed catalogues scattered all around her house.  

            It is from my grandmother that I learned how to plant and grow seeds. I’ve grown literally hundreds of varieties of perennials, vegetables and annuals from seed. Seeds as big as sunflowers and as small a dust particles (sweet alyssum) have fallen from my hand into the soil.  I’ve learned most of my ticks from trial and error. With some varieties I’ve had great success and yet others (wax leaf begonias) seem to evade my attempt at getting them to germinate and survive.

            Growing plants from seed has seen a re-birth of sorts during this economic downturn. Most stores couldn’t keep vegetable seeds in stock at all last spring. Regardless of your reason for wanting to grow seeds, I’ve written down some basic steps to help you succeed.

 Here is what you need to get started:

            Something to plant in - peat pots, planting trays, and peat pellets work best.  Just make sure the container drains well (has a hole in the bottom) and is large enough that it won’t dry out between waterings.

            Seedling potting mix - you will want to use a potting soil that is designed for starting seeds.   I use an organic mix called Jiffy Seedling Mix is the perfect for germinating seeds. The mix is designed to promote better root development in young plants.

            Seeds - there are so many to choose from.  For most plant varieties, plan on growing them 6-8 weeks indoors, but check the packet directions for accurate growing times.  Also check the packet to see if pre-soaking is recommended.  Some seeds like morning glories need to be soaked overnight to break the hard seed cover. Some plants like lupine don’t transplant well so the packed may recommend they be sown directly into the ground, so make sure to read the directions.

            A place to grow - seeds need a warm place in order to germinate.  After they sprout, sufficient light is critical.  A sunny windowsill works fine, as long as it isn’t too hot or too cold.

            A cover – if your planting tray did not come with a clear plastic lid, you can use plastic wrap to cover your finished tray. The cover helps keep the humidity high which helps in the germinating process.

            Spray bottle – you’ll want a spray bottle to be able to mist your soil to keep it moist. Many newly sprouted seedlings are tiny and can get washed away with water from your watering can. Misting to keep the soil moist is the best way to water until the seedlings are big enough to withstand the sprinkling from a watering can.

Now you are ready to plant your seeds.  Follow these easy steps for success!

            Fill your planting tray or peat pots with a seedling potting mix.  Pre-moisten the mix with water.  If you try to water after you’ve seeded, you may bury the seeds to deep with all the water needed to wet the soil. Peat pellets are fun to use if you have young children.  When you add water the peat pellet “puff up” from a flat disc to a tall self planting pot. 

            Place your seeds in the soil.  Larger seeds can be planted individually into the tray or peat pot.  Smaller seeds can be very difficult to see.  Sprinkle 3-4 seeds over the soil in each pot.  Press in or lightly cover the seeds with potting mix.  Do not cover them too deeply with soil. 

            Cover your planting tray with a clear tray lid or with clear plastic wrap.  You can also place plastic wrap over the tops of individual pots if you don’t have a tray.  Place the tray or pots in a warm spot out of direct sunlight.  Make sure that your soil always remains warm and moist.

            When the seeds begin to sprout, remove the plastic wrap. Turn the tray every two days to keep the plants growing straight.  Plants will always grow towards the sunlight.

            Transplant the seedlings when they get 2”-3” tall and have developed true leaves.  This should happen after about 2-3 weeks.  Transplant them to slightly larger containers to allow the roots to continue to develop.  Lift the seedlings carefully by digging them out with a fork or spoon, taking care not to disturb the tender roots.  Keep transplants out of direct sun for a couple of days to prevent wilting.

            Feed with a balanced plant food like Jacks Classic 20-20-20 diluted to half strength and remember to keep your soil moist, but not soggy.

            When the danger of frost has passed (generally late May here in Central Massachusetts), transplant your seedlings into the garden. They must first be “hardened off” because if you take your seedlings and place them outside in the direct sunlight after they been grown indoors, they will scorch.  Set the tray outdoors in shade for 2-3 hours a day for 3-4 days  For the following 3-4 days, set the plants out a little longer each day, slowly exposing them to full sunlight.  After the week is over, transplant the seedlings into the garden.  Remember to use a transplant fertilizer like Bio-Tone when planting them.

My Final Tip: Whether planting a seed straight into the soil or planting a transplant, don't forget to bait for slugs. They will feast on your young plant before the plant grows big enough to feed you! Use the new organic slug controls that are safe for you, your family and the wildlife.

Michelle Harvey is a Massachusetts Certified Horticulturist.  She can be contacted at Lakeview Nurseries in Lunenburg or Winchendon or at michelle@lakeviewnurseries.com